05 May 2010

biblio(file): deluxe - how luxury lost its luster


When Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster first came out in 2007, I remember reading book reviews that placed reviewers in the extremes of love and hate.  It was interesting to read some of the unflattering reports that seem to call for its placement on a list of banned books waiting to be thrown into a bonfire.  On the other side, proponents conjectured that those who were against Deluxe, were part of a shadowy conspiracy trying to keep hidden the explosive secrets of the luxury goods & services industry. Great marketing, huh?  I made a mental note to buy and read it as soon as possible.

05 August 2009

idle(prattle): luxury cycling

I have a secret. I don't know how to ride a bicycle. Don't judge. Christian Dior couldn't ride one either. I do have fond memories racing along with my training wheels. Then my dad decided it was time to take those off and traumatized me forever. I have managed to avoid putting myself into situations that include riding a bike. I went to a wedding last year where I bumped into a friend who just came off of a cross country bike trip. She was trying to get us all to ride bikes around the island. Thank goodness the majority of my friends prefer partying to biking. Situation diverted. Before that, I was dating this guy and I let slip that I didn't know how to ride a bike. He thought it was cute and wanted to teach me how to ride. I thought it would be a good idea too; a sweet date in the park. That is until I started imagining me freaking out and with scabby knees. No thank you. I think I would be more motivated if I had a cute bike. One with a basket and a bell and possibly streamers. Painted in jadeite. And a matching helmet.



Keeping the dream alive.  I want a bike that is me, that I trust to ride because I'll admit that I am a little scared. I have been looking at Electra bikes, customizing them in my head. Not sure if I really buy in to the theory of a bicycle being the IT girl's fashion accessory but I do really like the blog Copenhagen Cycle Chic which features fashionable Copenhageners (and others) on their bicycles. Inspiration. Still searching, but during my hunt I've discovery the niche of the luxury bike. I clearly don not know enough about bikes to know if the specs on these bikes are impressive but they are still very interesting.

Fendi Abici Amante Donna
$5,900 - $9,500 available exclusively from Fendi flagship stores

Hermès Bicycle
$4,000 available at hermes.com

Gucci Cruiser Bicycle
$6365 available at gucci.com

Chanel Bicycle
$12,400 limited edition

Cynthia Rowley Beach Cruiser
$550 available at cynthiarowley.com

James Perse Cruiser
available exclusively at James Perse boutiques

Aurumania 24k Gold Plated Bicycle
$26,791.83 or $102,418.60 with Swarovski Crystals

Hublot “All Black” Bicycle
limited edition, available exclusively through Hublot stores



16 July 2009

design(mode): louis vuitton


Before Kanye West took over the music world and we found out about his love affair with Louis Vuitton, he was one of the musicians that I accidentally discovered. You know the one that you realize will be huge and then you can look back as the rest of the world is just catching up and say - whatever, I knew about him years ago. The very first song that I remember him actually rapping on was Champions which is a remix of Queen's version. It features Kanye with Dame Dash, Beanie Sigel, Cam'ron, Young Chris & Twista. I remember Dame hyping Kanye on the record saying that even though he was a producer, he rapped better than most in the game. This was in 2002. This started my hunt for more and I found a mix tape called Kon The Louis Vuitton Don. This was before College Dropout was released.


As you can see, the Louis Vuttion logo is plastered all over the cover. I am not sure if this was authorized by LV (I am thinking not) but Kanye had an early fascination with the brand whether they liked it or not. Unlike other celebrities who have been sued by Louis Vuitton for trademark infringement,  it obviously worked out for both parties because we have heard for awhile about Kanye coming out with a LV men’s shoe line.



  "They chose to contact me. Who wouldn't want to work with Louis Vuitton? They're the number-one luxury brand. It lets people know you like nice things. I want to be the type of designer that inspires people, not follow other ideas. I want to be as innovative as Marc Jacobs has been. I want to go from being a fashion plate to being an innovator. This collaboration is a dream come true. I'm a walking billboard but to be able to now create something from scratch is amazing."  
- Kanye West via DazedDigital

His designs debuted at Paris Fashion Week earlier this year and officially went on sale July 1st. Three shoes make up the collection - the Don's, Mr Hudson and the Jasper’s. This month, GQ has a spread of Kanye wearing them. But truth be told, I am not really into sneakers. There have been many points in my life where I could claim that I didn't even own a pair. But I can accept that there are people who love their trainers - including my fiancé. This is the only type of fashion he actually gets excited about - and the occassional hat. So here is to him and his kind.






from thestylemusings.com
shoe photo cred: high snobiety

15 July 2009

front(lines): vuitton in space


Next Monday marks the 40th anniversary of Apollo 11, the first lunar landing. And Louis Vuitton is celebrating in a major way. You have probably already seen the new space themed advertising featuring Buzz Aldrin, Sally Ride and Jim Lovell. If not, pop on over to Louis Vuitton Journeys. The website is interactive featuring interviews and videos. The three astronauts (and the Louis Vuitton Icare travel bag) were photographed by Annie Leibovitz in the California desert. The Icare bag is named after Icarus, the hero of Greek mythology who dies when he flies too close to the sun. Antoine Arnault, Vuitton’s head of communications, says he thought “what a nice symbol and coincidence! We are representing these people who went closer to the sun than anybody.”

All three astronauts donated a “significant” portion of their modeling fee to Al Gore’s Climate Project, as well as Louis Vuitton's undisclosed amount. To go along with this Ogilvy & Mather created campaign, Vuitton also unveiled the custom-made “Malle Mars” trunk.


"The robotic, space age-looking piece opens in multiple places, unveiling a variety of compartments and drawers, fully equipped to carry various essential items. Medication, tools, picnic wares, and more…plus a folding lounge chair for leisurely account of the Martian landscape."



This previous Monday the opened the exhibit with a celebration at the Rose Center for Earth and Space, which is part of the American Museum of Natural History in NYC, where the trunk is also on display.

Buzz Aldrin, Louis Vuitton North America President Daniel Lalonde and Jim Lovell

12 July 2009

front(lines): luxe news

Berlin Fashion Week Shows a Raw Energy
Scattered slabs of concrete, still daubed with their original graffiti, are pertinent reminders that 2009 marks 20 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall. But the cultural revolution that came with the fusion of the city’s East and West is even more visible as arty photographs in smart spaces, music pulsating from abandoned government buildings and fashion that reflects this hot, hip and happening city. (NYT)

Luxe Redux
They have the sepulchral feel of rediscovered tombs. Lavish. Silent. Undisturbed. Visiting luxury boutiques these days can seem like stepping into a time capsule, and in a sense, you are, as retail and marketing plans and products conceived during the bully days of early 2008 are still on display and feel, in this post-luxury age, as anachronistic and appealing as Zeppelin travel after the Hindenburg disaster. (Reuters)

Retailers focus on standout items to spur spending
Americans are increasingly shopping in their own closets for new looks, so merchants are diving in to help out.Clothing retailers are spotlighting a number of bold items this fall — from leather pants and jackets with structured shoulders to sequined tops and skirts — to persuade strapped consumers they can update their wardrobes without buying a new look head to toe. (AP)

US chain stores fail to escape gloom
Saks and Neiman Marcus, the luxury department stores, continued to struggle during the month. Neiman said its comparable-store sales had fallen 20.8 per cent. Saks's June comparable-store sales fell only 4.4 per cent as it benefited from the shift of a spring sales event that fell in May the year before. But comparable sales for May and June were down 15.2 per cent, it said. (FT)

Let crisis inspire haute couture
Fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier said on Wednesday tough times were triggers to think out of the box and that way haute couture will weather the world financial crisis. (Reuters)

Escada Is Optimistic of Rescue as Dressmaker Suffers
Escada AG Chief Executive Officer Bruno Saelzer said he’s optimistic investors will back a refinancing plan and avert insolvency at the German dressmaker whose celebrity clients include actress Katie Holmes. (Bloomberg)

Haute Couture Faces Uncertain Times
In the closeted world of satin and sequins that is Parisian haute couture, there is uncertainty about the future. (NYT)

Valentino Lenders Seek Debt Deal By End of Summer
Valentino Fashion Group's lenders, including UniCredit SpA, Mediobanca SpA and Citigroup Inc., are pressing the Italian luxury group to revise loan terms to allow the company to avoid defaulting on debt due in 2009, the Wall Street Journal reported. (Bloomberg)

Coach Is Now Traveling Coach
Long before today's handbag market became brand-saturated, Coach (COH) was synonymous with practical yet fashionable purses, designed for women who wanted bags made of quality leather that would hold up while they commuted to city centers or drove carpools. With this month's release of the budget-conscious Poppy line, Coach, a luxury-retail marvel once ridiculed for being stodgy, is increasingly associated with an entirely different—and notoriously fickle—population: teens, coeds, and grads. (Reuters)

Lunch with the FT: Manolo Blahnik
Financial Times' Vanessa Friedman interviews Manolo Blahnik:“Are shoes so important?” he asks. “Really? If I was a woman, I would be dressed in the same thing for a month and just change my hat and gloves. Maybe my shoes too; yes, I see what you mean but, really, it’s jewels that change an outfit. And I do love gloves. And I adddore hats. There are toooo many shoes now. I always tell the children,” – Blahnik is an honorary professor at the Royal College of Art and the “children” are his students – “‘Don’t do shoes! Do hats!’ And the shoes are so strange, so vulgar. I hate these platforms that are all over the place today; they are all about grabbing attention. They are suburban! I never do a platform. Well, I did, in the 1970s, but that was a bad experience.” (FT)

Italy's business 'showgirl' is not just a pretty face
Since taking over as leader of Confindustria, Mrs Marcegaglia - dubbed "Signora Steel" for her toughness and industry provenance - has surprised many for her ability to get things done. (FT)

Chanel, Now and Then
Interview with Cathy Horyn: I asked Mr. Lagerfeld about the new collection, about staying current, and about those blog reports that he would leave Chanel and be replaced by Alber Elbaz of Lanvin. Mr. Lagerfeld said to forget about it. He was going to die with his boots on. He also mentioned that Alain Wertheimer, whose family owns Chanel, said he would sell the house when the designer leaves. This might not be the case, Mr. Lagerfeld said, but it was a nice thing to be told. (NYT)

26 May 2009

front(lines): luxe news

Bucked by Designer, Versace CEO Eyes Exit // Versace says no friction between Donatella, CEO ~ According to the WSJ, Versace's CEO Giancarlo Di Risio, is expected to resign after months of clashes with lead designer Donatella Versace over how to cut costs at the Italian fashion house and overall strategy. The Versace family, which owns 100% of the fashion house, denies that there is any friction. Oh! And Versace Board Approves Plan Sidelining CEO.

Marios Schwab to Helm Halston ~ Ending one of the most speculated-about searches in recent months, (read: Olivier Theyskens) Halston has tapped designer Marios Schwab as its new creative director, effective this July.(nymag)

Ferragamo Net Slides 17 Percent ~ Italy’s Salvatore Ferragamo SpA reported a 17 percent drop in earnings in 2008 due to marginal revenue growth and a raft of new store openings (WWD)

Losses Widen at Escada ~ Escada shares slipped in trading Monday in reaction to a widening loss at the struggling German fashion house. (WWD)

Lanvin Posts Profit, Sales Gain 29 Percent ~ Lanvin, fueled by the creativity of Alber Elbaz, can face the economic crisis “in a healthy way,” said executive vice president Thierry Andretta. (WWD)

De La Renta to Open Stores in the Gulf Region ~ Not about to be mired down by the U.S. economy, Oscar de la Renta Ltd. is heading to the Arabian Gulf region to increase international sales. (WWD)

Saks posts smaller 1st-quarter loss than expected ~ Luxury retailer Saks Inc. reported a loss for the first quarter Tuesday as it struggles with the pullback in spending by its wealthy customers. Still, the results beat analysts' expectations as the chain benefited from cost cuts — sending shares up nearly 18 percent. (AP)

Thierry Mugler is back after a decade in the fasion wilderness ~ After a decade in the fashion wilderness, his outrageous power-clothes pushed aside by the bony elbow of waif-chic, Thierry Mugler is back and lending maximum impact to Beyoncé's killer curves on her new world tour. (Telegraph)

Burberry Goes Back to Basics ~ Luxury Brand Posts Loss, Puts New Focus on Signature Plaid Design. (WSJ)

Savannah College of Design Fetes Isabel and Ruben Toledo ~ The Savannah College of Art and Design honored the collaborative creativity of Isabel and Ruben Toledo on Saturday. (WWD)

LVMH buys a stake in Edun ~ LVMH, the world's largest luxury goods group, has made a foray into the fair trade fashion business by taking a minority stake in Edun, the ethical clothing group owned by Bono, the U2 pop star and Ali Hewson, his wife, for an undisclosed sum. (FT)

06 May 2009

front(lines): luxe news

As a consumer, like most, I've noticed myself becoming a bit more practical and having less bouts of 'splurging.' Even luxury brands aren't immune to the economy...


Tiffany & Co. has bought the bankrupt Lambertson Truex handbag brand and hired its designers as the jewelry retailer explores the possibility of developing handbags and leather accessories.


Henri Bendel is focusing in on its core categories — accessories, beauty and gifts. Under the retailer’s new strategy, the Fifth Avenue flagship will be downsized as Bendel’s concentrates on its most profitable areas while getting out of apparel.


Luxury retailer Barneys New York is trying to close two of its seven department stores to conserve cash amid a sharp decline in spending among the wealthiest Americans, according to people familiar with the matter.


In better news...


Online discount designer boutique Outnet has launched.


Even in the depths of a dark recession, luxury isn't such a bad place to be. While not entirely immune, the industry's biggest names--including Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Chanel--continue to succeed. This is according to the annual Millward Brown BrandZ ranking of the Top 100 Most Powerful Brands, a list that covers 50,000 brands worldwide, released April 29.


29 February 2008

front(lines): luxe news

The Luxury Insitute recently conducted their 2008 Jewelry Brand study. The study was conducted by providing 500+ wealthy consumers (net worths averaged $15.1 million) with a predetermined list of 20 luxury jewelry brands and asked them to rank the names on four key aspects:

♥ superior quality
♥ uniqueness and exclusivity
♥ their social status
♥ which had excellent customer service

The top 10 most prestigious jewelry brands ranked by high net worth consumers:

[1] HARRY WINSTON
Overall Luxury Brand Status Index score: 8.14

[2] BUCCELLATI
LBSI score: 8.04

[3] VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
LBSI score: 8.04

[4] GRAFF
LBSI score: 8.01

[5] TIFFANY
LBSI score: 7.97

[6] PIAGET
LBSI score: 7.91

[7] CARTIER
LBSI score: 7.9

[8] CHOPARD
LBSI score: 7.89

[9] BULGARI
LBSI score: 7.87
"Bulgari is unique and exceedingly elegant"

[10] MIKIMOTO
LBSI score: 7.69



source: wwd

17 February 2008

front(lines): louis vuitton commercial

I posted eariler this month that Louis Vuitton was going to advertise on the television for the first time ever. They are aiming to go more into their roots -- travel -- than the glitz & glam. Here is the first commercial,




03 February 2008

front(lines): lv on tv

A still from Vuitton's 90-second ad. It features ordinary people rather than celebrities. ( Louis Vuitton)

Last week, Louis Vuitton announced that it would launch their first ever TV campaign. The first will be a travel-themed 90-second spot that was shot in France, Spain, India and Japan. It will debut Feb. 15 and will run on cable and satellite television channels & in cinemas around the world. Vuitton states that the ads will be shown in "rigorously selected cinemas" and on cable and satellite channels that attract "well-traveled audiences", including CNN, BBC World, and the Golf Channel. And will not be shown on channels such as TF1, which has the biggest audience in France.

This is a huge step for LV and the luxury market, because they tend to advertise in magazines -- specifically to their taget market. By advertising on TV, they are taking luxury mass market. You probably would be hard pressed to find someone who hasn't heard of Louis Vuitton, but I bet if you were to dig deeper, fewer would really know the exact pattern, the history, and just the overall feel. I am definitely curious to see the first spot.


source

03 January 2008

front(lines): luxe news

  • Lifetime is making a miniseries about Coco Chanel starring Shirley MacLaine, who will play the designer in her later years. The project even has Karl Lagerfeld's blessing
  • Natalie Portman will be designing a line of completely animal-free shoes, to debut in February, for Te Casan.
  • Lacoste lost the lawsuit it had against a UK dental practice because Lacoste felt the crocodile logo they used was said too similar to the clothing firm's famous croc. They now have to pay £1,450 towards the dentist's legal costs.
  • Gucci is creating a limited-edition collection for Beijing summer games.
  • Dolce & Gabbana names Christophe Albarran as president of its U.S. subsidiary.


ALSO READ -

Chicago Tribune: 2008 may test luxury retail market
Wall Street Journal: Why Luxury Will Lose Luster in 2008
Portfolio: Will The Rich Stop Shopping in 2008?
Travel Agent Central: 2008 Trends in the Luxury Market
Telegraph: Breathing new life into luxury
WWD: Luxury's Latest Frontier: Brands Rush to Expand In Surging Middle East

05 December 2007

front(lines): green luxury


There is a new study by the World Wildlife Fund stating that the luxury industry is not being green. The WWF report argues that luxury brands are "slow to recognise their responsibilities and opportunities vis-a-vis global warming & ethical trade and [urge] celebrities who help sell the brands to sit up and take note.” The WWF-UK environmental group looked at the world's 10 largest publicly-traded luxury firms and ranked them A to F (best score to worst score). The highest score was a C+ and the ranking was based on reports by the companies themselves to the Ethical Investment Research Service (EIEIS) and on media reports collected on the companies by a Geneva-based research house, Covalence. Here is how they ranked:

   [1] L'Oreal : C+
   [2] Hermès : C+
   [3] LVMH : C+
   [4] Coach : C
   [5] Tiffany & Co. : D+
   [6] Swatch : D
   [7] PPR : D
   [8] Richemont : D
   [9] Bulgari : F
   [10] Tods : F

You might not be familiar with some of these companies, however some own the brands that you probably are more familiar.
  •  L’Oreal: Guy Laroche, Kiehl’s, Lancôme, Paloma Picasso, Ralph Lauren, Shu Uemura, Victor et Rolf parfums, Vichy, Giorgio Armani Parfums and Cosmetics, Diesel Perfumes
  •  LVMH:TAG Heuer, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Dior, Celine, Donna Karen, Emilio Pucci, Givenchy, Kenzo, Loewe, Marc Jacobs, Thomas Pink, Le Bon Marché, Sephora, Guerlain
  • Swatch: Breguet, Omega, Calvin Klein, Rado, Hamilton, Longines
  • PPR: Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga
  • Richemont: Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Chloé, Montblanc, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Baume et Mercier, International Watch Company
  • Tod’s:Tod’s, Hogan, Fay
To learn more about the study and brands, WWF has launched a website called Deeper Luxury. To read the full report click here and for tips as to what you as a consumer can do, click here and here.


20 August 2007

front(lines): central department store



I don't know quite what to say about this. It reminds me of the mock debate I had in school about whether companies advertising directly to kids are committing a moral wrong. I had to defend the business position so I argued it was the role of parents to teach their children about the difference between reality and advertising. But seriously...sometimes I can't tell the difference.

The billboard above is dedicated to school year preparations in Moscow and has a little girl getting ready for school, while talking to her old toys. She says,
‘I’m going to school! Now I think only of frocks and frills and don’t need you, two losers! Daddy, if you love me, buy me shoes, a dress and a hat! Dolce & Gabbana, Armani and Prada!’ 
Recently, visitors of the shop featuring the billboard noticed that all the word by the characters were taped up. The Russian Advertisement Investigation Department is investigating the billboard.





08 August 2007

brief(critique): limited editions

Yesterday I got this article from WWD in my email - Fashion Brands Use Scarcity as Strategy With Limited Editions and then I stumbled upon this one from London Financial Times - Get it While You Can. My first thoughts based on the titles alone - "duh" and "move out of my way lady!" respectively. There seems to have been a greater increase of 'limited edition' items to hit the market recently. This is a great strategy for a quick boost in brand recognition and possible revenue, but too much of good thing can become tiresome.

I find this topic interesting both from the marketing side and as a consumer. On the first level I am a marketer's dream -- just dangle some shiny object in front of me long enough to distract me from my wallet. But on the second level, once I get the emotion of 'I want that!' I go in to marketing mode, dissecting what did this brand do to make me crave that item so much? It it heavily psychological, and it is not too hard to figure out that the whole idea of rolling out limited edition products is brilliant. You have a once in a lifetime opportunity to own something that only 500 or 10,000 or 200,000 people on the planet will ever get to take home as their own. Who doesn't want to be part the special club, proudly wearing your badge of honor? Especially if there is a great story to go along with it of how you waited in line for seven hours, in the rain, without any guarantee that you were holding one of the golden numbers à la Willy Wonky style. Limited editions = status symbol. Unfortunately, there are two problems for the buyer.



First, it is easy to get caught up in the hype that is swirling around and one does not necessarily take the time to answer the question if they will ever use or wear the item. Sometimes it is more about the experience of attaining something everyone else wants. But what if the appeal really is not as high as you thought; sometimes you have to ask yourself "am I really this lucky or is this just junk?" And what if it is really popular; this opens the door for competing brands and knock-offs. Your once celebrated limited edition is now one of many.

Secondly, since premium or luxury editions cannot be replaced because by definition limited, you become more hesitate to wear it out. There is a man in the FT article who says that he wears his limited edition trainers all the time. I don't know about you, but I have to qualify each event I take one of my limited edition handbags to...no smoking, not overcrowded, limited food & drinks, etc. Okay maybe that is stretching it, but you know what I mean. There are specific places and times where you know certain things are not going to be respected (ex., rainy days).  Being hypersensitive about messing it up somehow ruins the whole enjoyment. Add this to the fact that some limited edition items are very trendy or quickly become dated. So your brand new status symbol becomes less of a symbol and more of a target.

The WWD article takes the view point of fashion as art. Not entirely just about the artistic value but as a collector. Sometimes I think I am like this, getting satisfaction by simply opening my closet. There are things I am totally happy about and don't hesitate to pull out and wear. There are others that I cringe about wondering what was I thinking when I bought that...anyone want to buy a lime green trucker's hat?


17 July 2007

vital(scene): luxury

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel
Evening chemise
Pink silk crepe chiffon
Circa 1925, France

The Museum at FIT currently has an exhibition from May 23 - November 10, 2007 about Luxury. You can even view the online exhibition for items like this vintage Chanel Dress.


"[the exhibition] covers 250 years of fashion history, and features more than 150 extraordinary garments, accessories, and textiles from the museum's permanent collection of 80,000 objects. The exhibition encompasses aristocratic luxury fashions from the 18th century; contributions from great couturiers such as Chanel, Dior, Worth, and Poiret; and contemporary accessories by Hermès and Lanvin.
Among the garments in the gallery are a brocaded silk dress, circa 1735, a reception dress from the 1880s by Worth, and a 1950 white silk evening gown with gold embroidery by Dior. Accessories include gold Chanel gloves from the estate of Tina Chow, circa 1932, as well as a contemporary Hermès handbag, Louis Vuitton shoes, and a Lanvin necklace.
The exhibition begins with a look at the politics of luxury in the 18th century. Against the traditional idea of luxury as excessive and morally corrupting, there developed a new belief that luxury could be a positive contribution to the wealth of nations. Private vices, such as extravagance and vanity, could be public virtues because they provided work for countless artisans.
Haute couture, the ultimate luxury industry, emerged during the era of high capitalism in the 19th century. Great couturiers, such as Worth and Poiret, became recognized as "artists of luxury." Companies, such as Hermès and Louis Vuitton, also became iconic purveyors of luxury products. The 'new luxury' of today remains a symbol of distinction, but it is no longer restricted to a tiny elite. Marketing luxury to the masses is a multibillion dollar business, and, increasingly, there are many different kinds of luxury. "

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